Fashion Week(s) Favorites
From one fashion metropolis to the next, I can’t say I was inspired/passionate about too many shows this season. Nomadic traces of Spring 2010 remain rampant, with an epic focus on surface design. With a few days left to soak in the Fall 2010 set I’ve collected the urban-gypsy boho-soaked looks that I love.
Mary Katrantzou‘s eccentric mix of hardware and creative prints blows me away. A symmetrical, complex layout of frou frou and jewels screened on a simple shift dress turns boyish Tao into a post-modern princess. Meanwhile dresses still boast vibrant details that borderline excess, but the fierce image of this line goes hand in hand with the haywire palette.
Peter Dundas is killing it (in the best way possible). He infuses an epic sex appeal to looks that offer full coverage and creates mini dresses with more punch than a room-filling ballgown. He’s sitting at Emilio Pucci with an “everything you need for a fabulous fall collection” and checking off all the elements, one after another.
Alexandre Herchcovitch sent his decorated dolls down the runway with chain head decor, saturated plaids, and USSR uniform-inspired frocks. Their skinny limbs were punctuated by combat boots and thick bracelets. How much more boho street cred do you need?
Blumarine was a plethora of decadent animal prints and crystal glints molded into rock-n-roll ensembles that were decidedly too much on the street but a spectacular show on the runway. These are the uniforms of show stopping party animals who don’t need a single slither of red to let you know they’re out for blood.
The hair and makeup drove it home on Cavalli’s collection, which reminds me of an editorial that ran in VOGUE in 1998 or so, featuring a gorgeous long-haired gypsy and selective handsome men from her caravan. This kind of dead animal/regal tailoring pile-up is the perfect anecdotal answer to the complicated needs of today’s brocade-loving hunter-gatherer female. Seriously, I love this.
I like to think I’ll do another post like this one soon but I don’t think I’ll have time – so these go down in Tchaikovsky Darling history as the best collections of Fall 2010.